As the chill in the air becomes more prominent, my thoughts focus on winter's seasonal cuisine. Although many view the winter season as dreary and cold, I am inspired by the culinary possibilities of hearty winter fare.

Growing up on a working farm in West Virginia, winter was a time for slow cooking and braising, in a pot-au-feu style. A hearty family meal made from fresh meats coupled with dried fruits and pickled vegetables warmed even the coldest winter chill. Even though I may be far from West Virginia, the bounty of my youth follows me. As a chef, there is nothing more satisfying than learning about and experimenting with cooking techniques and ingredients from around the globe. My philosophy around designing a dish, no matter what the season, is to accent the traditional along with the exotic.

Most often, the fine cuts of meat such as filet mignon and New York Strip are considered the most flavorful and desirable. I disagree. Tougher cuts, such as short ribs, beef cheeks, and lamb shanks, when cooked properly, offer diners unprecedented rich flavors and textures.

Braising and slow cooking are the key to tenderizing these cuts. Winter is the perfect season for this cooking style. The beauty of these "peasant" cuts is that they have the capacity to take on bold flavors. Natural compliments to these types of dishes include the sweetness of dried fruits, the acidity of wine-based marinades, the saltiness of brining, the tartness that comes from vinegars and citrus juices, or even the bitterness from coffee or certain chocolates (i.e. mole sauce). If exotic spices are more your speed, you need only to take a trip to your local spice market to season your dish. One is only limited by imagination, and experimentation is the key. It is difficult to make a poor choice.

My advice, enjoy wintertime cuisine. It is as simple to cook using braising or slow-cooking techniques for two as it is for 20. Invite your friends, experiment with different flavors and combinations, and enjoy a robust bottle of red wine (a festive mulled wine will also do the trick). A good recipe for slow cooking and one that you could serve at your New Year's Eve dinner or party is my Holiday Braised Short Ribs With Dried Fruit . slow cooked and delicious. Happy New Year!

Holiday Slow-Cooked Short Ribs with Dried Fruit

4 short ribs (12 to 16 ounces each)

2 carrots

3 onions

3 stalks of celery

375 ml ( 1/2 bottle) of shiraz (or use cabernet)

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 tablespoon tomato paste

5 cups chicken stock (or beef broth)

1 cup dried diced apricots

1/2 cup dried diced prunes

1/4 cup dried cherries

Salt and Pepper

Marinate short ribs, carrots, onions and celery in the wine (shiraz or cabernet) for 24 hours. Remove short ribs from marinade and pat them dry with a paper towel.

Strain the carrots, onions and celery from the wine marinade.

Generously season short ribs with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat a large casserole or Dutch oven (5 to 8 quarts) over medium-high heat. Add canola oil, then sear short ribs on all sides until they are golden brown.

Add strained vegetables and cook on medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes until they are golden brown.

Add tomato paste. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until tomato paste turns brown. Add wine from marinade. Add 5 cups of stock and dried fruit. Cook in oven at 350 degrees for 3 to 3 1/2 hours until meat is tender.

Serve over mashed potatoes or buttered egg noodles.

Yield: 4 servings.

Sterling Smith is the chef-owner of The Sterling Inn in New Rochelle.