Chef Sterling Smith is known for his beet soup.

Actually, it's borscht. And it's made with lobster.

It's a typical combination for Smith, who likes to take humble ingredients and dress them up. He took a similar approach to opening The Sterling Inn in New Rochelle in August 2005: He renovated a former railroad station to create a lounge, a bar room with a mahogany bar, brick walls and sleek tables, and a formal back dining room.

His cookingreflects his training at such restaurants as Inn at Little Washington in Virginia and 13 years cooking in Manhattan at Lespinnase, Park Avenue Cafe, Aureole and One CPS. He was also a chef at Mighty Joe Young's in Hartsdale. His restaurant's menus - there are two, one casual and one fancy - include such dishes as steamed mussels with white wine and a saffron lemon grass broth; truffled fettuccini alfredo with grilled prawns and chestnuts, baby carrots and celery root; and Moroccan-style lamb tagine with grilled lamb chops, buttered basmati rice, apricots, dried prunes and ras el hanout, a Middle Eastern spice blend.

Smith, who is 38, was born in Cleveland, Ohio, and grew up on a farm in West Virginia. (That's where he took notice of those humble ingredients.) His wife, Rachael, is expecting their first child next month. Here, he chats by e-m ail with food editor Liz Johnson about what - and where - he cooks and eats.

Describe how your menu reflects your cooking style.

A creative twist on the traditional. I like to focus on fresh ingredients coupled with exotic spices from around the globe to create a unique dining experience for my customers. Whether it be a the jumbo black Angus burger on my casual dining menu, the signature lobster borscht on my fine dining menu or the Grand Marnier French toast from the brunch, my goal is to appeal to all of the senses - plating, aroma, taste and texture are all considerations. I combine my background from my early days growing up on a farm in West Virginia with the refined French training that I received while cooking at Lespinasse to create an innovative menu based on traditional tastes. Now, as owner of my own restaurant, The Sterling Inn, it delights me to rise to even newer challenges with desserts, as I am also the pastry chef.

What do you cook for yourself or your family?

Since I have so little time for cooking at home, I usually prepare brunch; it is one of my favorite meals. My grandmother taught me a great recipe for Grand Marnier French toast that has made its way onto the Sunday brunch menu at The Sterling Inn.

Besides your own restaurant, what were the last three local places you ate out?

Trotters in White Plains, Jackie's Bistro in Eastchester and Blue Hill At Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills. Owning a restaurant and being a hands-on executive chef doesn't leave too much time for an evening out, but I wouldn't have it any other way! Next opportunity, I would like to take my wife to Xaviars at Piermont.

Where would you go for a cozy night out?

Whenever we have the opportunity, my wife and I enjoy a quaint, casual wine bar. Great appetizers or tapas and great wine - that's our idea of a fantastic cozy evening.

What drew you to the Lower Hudson Valley?

When considering my life's ambitions, I knew two things: Firstly, I wanted to open my own restaurant, where I would only be limited by my imagination, and secondly, I wanted to raise a family in a community setting. The Lower Hudson Valley provides me with that opportunity. Westchester diners are sophisticated, and they appreciate a Manhattan-style dining experience. Additionally, there are wonderful local farms, and the indigenous products of the Hudson Valley and New York state make the Lower Hudson Valley extremely appealing for a chef.

What would you change about the dining scene here?

Fine dining is viewed as a weekend or special-occasion event. However, given the price points and the ease of location, fine dining is available all week long, and it would be great for folks to take advantage of the opportunities for quality dining during the week. That is why I created my casual dining menu. One of my favorite customers is an 8-year-old girl that lives across the street. She regularly asks her parents to come to The Sterling Inn for our kid-friendly menu. There is no greater compliment.